Koh Lanta Cuisine

ESSENTIAL DISHES

Southern Thai curries dominate, but the island's Muslim heritage brings Khao Mok Gai to the forefront. This regional take on chicken biryani layers yellow turmeric rice over fall-apart chicken thighs, smelling strongly of roasted coriander seed and fried shallots. Find the best plates at the morning food stalls near Saladan Pier for around 60 THB (£1.30). Next comes authentic Massaman curry. Unlike the sweet peanut soup served in London, the local version is dark, oily, and heavy with star anise and tamarind. Eat this at the family-run shophouses along the main road in Khlong Nin for roughly 150 THB (£3.30).

Seafood is mandatory, specifically Pla Pao. Whole snapper is packed in coarse salt, stuffed with lemongrass, and grilled over charcoal until the flesh steams in its own juices. Pick your fish directly from the ice boxes in Lanta Old Town, paying about 350 THB (£7.70) depending on weight. Pair it with Yum Hua Plee, a banana blossom salad that cuts through the rich fish with sharp lime juice, toasted coconut, and roasted chilli jam. Track this down at the night market in Phra Ae for 80 THB (£1.75). Finally, dessert means Roti. Vendors stretch the dough paper-thin before slapping it onto a hot oiled griddle, folding it over banana and drowning it in sweetened condensed milk. Catch the roaming sidecar carts along Long Beach at dusk; a standard banana roti costs 40 THB (£0.90) and requires eating immediately while the pastry still shatters.

WHERE TO EAT

Saladan Walking Street operates every weekend, functioning as the premier entry point for grazing. Expect to spend around 150 THB (£3.30) filling up on grilled skewers and heavy curries served in plastic bags. For sit-down dining, Lanta Old Town features wooden stilt houses suspended directly over the ocean. The seafood spots here cater to a mid-range budget, where a massive shared feast runs about 500 THB (£11) per person. Budget travellers should stick to the main road running parallel to Khlong Dao beach, where corrugated iron roofs shelter superb noodle shops charging 50 THB (£1.10) a bowl. Most tourists miss the Sunday market in the deeply local village of Tung Yee Peng. Hidden away on the mangrove-lined east coast, this morning gathering offers obscure southern sweets and charcoal-grilled chicken that make the 40-minute scooter ride entirely justified.

Look for carts operating between 4 PM and 9 PM, particularly those with a queue of local delivery drivers waiting outside. Skip the pre-cooked seafood sitting under harsh fluorescent lights; instead, point to the raw squid or prawns on ice and wait the five minutes it takes for the vendor to grill them fresh. When ordering at a busy stall, stand close to the cart to establish your place in the invisible queue, but never point at the food with your feet. Handing your money over with your right hand while touching your left hand to your right elbow guarantees a much warmer reception from the older vendors.

DRINKS

Because of the strong Muslim demographic, many local eateries are strictly dry. In these spots, locals drink Cha Yen, an aggressively brewed black tea cut with crushed ice and condensed milk, costing 40 THB (£0.90). Beach bars on the west coast flow freely with large bottles of Leo and Chang beer for 100 THB (£2.20). Do not skip the local Nam Som, a freshly pressed tangerine juice served over ice with a sharp pinch of salt.

WHAT TO AVOID

Steer clear of the beachfront resorts offering oversized western-style seafood platters. These are routinely overpriced and the lobsters often sit frozen for weeks. If you crave shellfish, head straight to the sea gypsy village at Sang Ga U where fishermen sell their morning catch directly. Pass on the generic Pad Thai served in the main tourist hubs; order Pad See Ew instead, which locals actually eat for a quick, smoky noodle fix.