Koh Chang - Trat

Koh Chang is Thailand's second-largest island, yet over 70% of its mountainous terrain remains untouched virgin rainforest protected within a National Marine Park. This rugged landscape creates a dramatic verticality where peaks like Khao Salak Phet rise 743 metres directly from the Gulf of Thailand, dwarfing the coastal developments below.

Located in the far eastern Trat Province near the Cambodian border, Koh Chang offers a starkly different atmosphere to the commercialised hubs of Phuket or Samui. The island is defined by its steep, jungle-clad interior and a single main road that skirts the perimeter, connecting a series of distinct beach communities. It draws a mix of independent travellers, families, and nature enthusiasts who prefer hiking through monsoon forests and kayaking to uninhabited islets over high-octane nightlife. While the west coast features established tourism infrastructure, the island retains a wild, frontier identity that rewards those willing to navigate its challenging geography.

The Rugged Geography of Thailand's Elephant Island

The defining characteristic of Koh Chang is its uncompromising verticality, which has prevented the mass-scale urbanisation seen on flatter Thai islands. Most visitors arrive at the northern piers and head down the west coast, where the mountains sit just a few hundred yards back from the shoreline. This narrow strip of habitable land is where you will find the main villages, each separated from the next by steep, winding mountain passes that require careful navigation. Hat Sai Khao, known as White Sand Beach, serves as the primary hub, offering the highest density of banks, clinics, and shops along its 1.5-mile stretch. Further south, the terrain becomes even more dramatic as the road climbs over the "Lonely Beach" pass, a notorious series of hairpin bends that offer views across the archipelago toward Koh Yuak and Koh Man Noi. The island's interior is largely inaccessible except by foot, housing a complex ecosystem of macaques, barking deer, and over 70 species of birds. This geographical isolation means that even during the peak season of December and January, the island rarely feels overcrowded outside of the immediate beach fronts.

Choosing your base on the west coast significantly dictates your experience due to the physical barriers between bays. Klong Prao Beach offers the widest expanse of sand and is bisected by a saltwater lagoon, making it a favourite for those who value space and quiet. In contrast, Kai Bae provides a more intimate village feel with a concentration of independent boutiques and viewpoints overlooking the outer islands. The far south is home to the fishing village of Bang Bao, which is built entirely on a long wooden pier extending into the bay. This area serves as the gateway for diving trips and boat excursions to the southern islands of Koh Mak and Koh Kood.

To help you decide where to stay, the following table compares the primary areas of the island:

Waterfalls and Coastal Landmarks

The interior of Koh Chang is punctuated by a series of powerful freshwater waterfalls that serve as the island’s primary natural landmarks. Khlong Phlu Waterfall is the most accessible and impressive, located a short 15-minute walk from the park entrance in Klong Prao. You will pay an entry fee of 200 THB (£4.55) for adults, which grants access to a large plunge pool surrounded by high rock walls where swimming is permitted. For those seeking a more secluded experience, Than Mayom Waterfall on the east coast offers a tiered series of cascades that were famously visited by Kings Rama V and Rama VI, who carved their initials into the stones. The eastern side of the island remains largely undeveloped, featuring long stretches of empty road, fruit orchards, and the Spirit of Koh Chang Shrine near the ferry piers. This shrine is a colourful Chinese-style temple dedicated to the island’s guardian spirit and offers one of the best cultural insights into the local belief systems.

Further south, the Bang Bao fishing village stands as the island's most iconic man-made landmark. The entire community is built on stilts over the water, with a central walkway lined with seafood restaurants, souvenir shops, and small guest houses. At the very end of the pier sits a white lighthouse that provides a 360-degree view of the bay and the surrounding forested hills. This village was once a quiet enclave for local fishermen but has evolved into a busy hub for maritime activity. Despite the tourism, you can still see traditional fishing nets being repaired and catch-of-the-day being hauled onto the wooden decks in the early mornings.

Coastal Seafood and Durian Curries

The culinary identity of Koh Chang is a robust mix of Gulf of Thailand seafood and the unique agricultural products of Trat Province. Because the island is a major producer of durian, you will find a local variation of Massaman curry that incorporates the fruit, providing a creamy, slightly sweet texture that balances the spice. For the freshest seafood, you must head to the stilt-house restaurants of Bang Bao, such as Chow Lay Seafood or Buddha View. Here, you can select live snapper, tiger prawns, and blue swimmer crabs directly from tanks, usually priced by weight. A typical dinner for two including a whole steamed fish with lime and chilli, stir-fried morning glory, and drinks will cost approximately 800 to 1,200 THB (£18 to £27). The quality is consistently high because the boats dock just metres from the kitchen doors.

For a more casual evening, the night market at the northern end of White Sand Beach provides a diverse range of street food starting from 50 THB (£1.15) per dish. You can find everything from grilled pork skewers (moo ping) to fresh fruit shakes and Thai pancakes (roti). If you are staying in the Klong Prao area, Kati Culinary is highly regarded for its traditional Thai recipes and cooking school, where you can learn to balance the four essential Thai flavours. The island also has a burgeoning coffee culture, with spots like Wari Coffee offering views of the Klong Prao lagoon alongside locally roasted beans.

Maritime Adventures and Jungle Treks

Exploration on Koh Chang extends both deep into the jungle and far out into the surrounding Marine National Park. For divers and snorkelers, the HTMS Chang shipwreck is the premier site, sitting at a depth of 30 metres and acting as a massive artificial reef for barracuda and grouper. Boat trips depart daily from Bang Bao, with a full day of snorkelling around Koh Rang and Koh Yak usually costing around 700 to 900 THB (£16 to £20), including lunch and equipment. If you prefer to stay on land, jungle trekking is the best way to experience the island’s biodiversity. Guided treks with local experts like "Tan’s Trekking" are essential, as the trails are often unmarked and can be dangerously steep. These treks often involve scrambling over roots and through streams, leading to hidden viewpoints that overlook the entire archipelago.

Kayaking is another popular activity, particularly from Kai Bae Beach, where you can paddle out to the small island of Koh Man Nai in about 20 minutes. During low tide, a sandbar appears, allowing you to walk between islets in crystal-clear knee-deep water. For those interested in local conservation, the Salak Khok Mangrove Forest on the east coast offers traditional gondola-style boat tours through the winding waterways. This community-led project costs about 200 THB (£4.55) per person and provides a silent, serene way to see the "hidden" side of the island away from the petrol engines of the west coast.

Accommodation from Budget to Luxury

The accommodation landscape on Koh Chang is geographically segmented, with luxury resorts dominating the north and rustic huts found in the south. White Sand Beach is home to the KC Grande Resort, a large-scale luxury option with multiple pools and direct beach access, typically costing 4,500 to 6,000 THB (£102 to £136) per night. Moving south to Klong Prao and Kai Bae, the options become more mid-range and boutique, with resorts like The Dewa offering unique "rustic-modern" architecture. These areas are ideal for those who want comfort without the crowds of the main town.

For travellers on a budget, Lonely Beach remains the primary destination, though it has moved away from its purely "backpacker" roots. You can still find basic fan-cooled bungalows for 400 THB (£9) per night, or more atmospheric options like Oasis Koh Chang. Oasis is located on a hillside overlooking the jungle and sea, offering a treehouse-style experience starting at around 800 THB (£18). The following table provides a snapshot of what you can expect to pay for different accommodation types across the island:

Getting There and Getting Around

Reaching Koh Chang from Bangkok is a straightforward journey of approximately five to seven hours. Most UK visitors take the 999 Government Bus or a private minivan from Ekkamai Eastern Bus Terminal, which costs roughly 270 THB (£6.10) for a one-way ticket to the piers in Trat. Upon arrival at Thammachat Pier, the ferry crossing takes about 30 to 45 minutes and costs 80 THB (£1.80) per person. If you prefer to fly, Bangkok Airways operates three daily flights from Suvarnabhumi (BKK) to Trat Airport (TDX), followed by a short minivan transfer to the ferry.

Once on the island, the primary mode of transport is the songthaew, a covered pick-up truck with benches. These operate as shared taxis along the main west coast road, with prices ranging from 50 THB (£1.15) for short hops to 150 THB (£3.40) for longer journeys to the south. Scooter rentals are widely available for approximately 250 THB (£5.70) per day, but you should exercise extreme caution. The roads are notoriously steep and include the "S-Curve" near Kai Bae, which is hazardous even for experienced riders during rain. Grab is not currently operational on the island, so you will rely on songthaews or private rentals.

Costs and Budgeting

Koh Chang offers excellent value compared to the islands in the Andaman Sea, though prices have risen as infrastructure has improved. A budget traveller can comfortably manage on 1,200 THB (£27) per day by staying in fan-cooled huts and eating at local markets. For a mid-range experience including air-conditioned accommodation, two restaurant meals, and a scooter rental, you should budget approximately 3,000 THB (£68) per day. Those seeking a high-end experience with luxury resort stays and private tours will find that 7,000 THB (£159) per day provides a very high standard of living. Alcohol prices are standard for Thailand, with a large Chang beer in a bar costing around 90-120 THB (£2.00 - £2.70). The island is generally 10-15% cheaper than Phuket for similar quality food and activities.

Who It Suits

Koh Chang is an ideal destination for nature lovers and families who want a balance of accessibility and wild scenery. It suits those who enjoy being active, whether that involves hiking to waterfalls or kayaking between islands. It is less suited to travellers looking for a "party island" vibe like Koh Phangan, or those who require perfectly flat, manicured resort environments. The steep terrain and rugged nature of the island mean it is not the best choice for those with significant mobility issues, as many resorts and viewpoints involve stairs and inclines.

What To Know Before You Go

The roads on Koh Chang are among the most dangerous in Thailand for inexperienced riders. Steep inclines and sharp hairpin bends combined with tropical rain make scooter accidents common, so only rent one if you are highly confident. Sandflies can be a significant nuisance on certain beaches like Klong Prao and Lonely Beach. Their bites are itchier and longer-lasting than mosquito bites, so use coconut oil or local repellent to create a barrier on your skin. Monkeys are frequently seen along the roadside, particularly near the southern passes. While they may look approachable, they are wild animals known to snatch bags and can be aggressive if they expect food. ATMs are plentiful on the west coast but almost non-existent on the east coast. If you plan to explore the quieter side of the island, ensure you have enough cash for small restaurants and entry fees.

Practical Tips

Buy your ferry tickets directly at the pier ticket office. This avoids any third-party markups and ensures you are on the next available crossing.

Book your return bus to Bangkok a day in advance during peak season. Buses from the Trat mainland terminals can fill up quickly, especially on Sundays.

Carry a waterproof bag for all boat and kayak trips. Sudden tropical downpours are common even in the dry season, and your electronics will need protection.

Visit Khlong Phlu Waterfall as soon as it opens at 08:00. This allows you to enjoy the plunge pool before the tour groups arrive around mid-morning.

Check your travel insurance specifically for scooter coverage. Many UK policies are void if you are not licensed to ride a motorbike in the UK.

Respect the National Park regulations regarding plastic. Single-use plastics are increasingly restricted within the park boundaries to protect the marine ecosystem.

Eat at the roadside stalls between the major beach villages. These often serve the local workforce and offer more authentic Trat-style flavours at lower prices.

Book your transport and activities through a reliable platform for peace of mind.

Quick Reference Table