Ayutthaya Travel

GETTING THERE

Flying direct from London Heathrow to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi with EVA Air or Thai Airways takes around eleven and a half hours, costing roughly 700 to 900 GBP (31,500 to 40,500 THB). From Bangkok, the journey north is a rite of passage. Skip the overpriced private taxis and head to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal for the train. Third-class tickets on the Rapid or Ordinary services cost a laughable 20 THB (0.45 GBP), taking about ninety minutes with the windows wide open to the passing rice paddies. Bring your own water as the onboard vendors sell out quickly. Alternatively, a minivan from Mochit New Van Terminal costs 70 THB (1.50 GBP) and shaves off twenty minutes, but luggage space is virtually non-existent. If you travel with a large hard-shell suitcase, you will have to buy a second seat just for your bags.

GETTING AROUND

Once you arrive, the absolute best way to explore the historical park is by renting a bicycle from one of the dozens of shops opposite the train station or along Naresuan Road. Expect to pay 50 THB (1.10 GBP) for the entire day. The terrain is perfectly flat. The midday heat is fierce, so pedal early and retreat to an air-conditioned cafe by noon. For longer jumps between the central island and the outer temples, local tuk-tuks are unique; they look like oversized frogs and operate as shared songthaews or private hires. Negotiate fiercely. A private hour should cost no more than 200 THB (4.40 GBP), but drivers initially quote double that to fresh arrivals. Grab operates here, but cars are scarce compared to Bangkok, meaning you might wait twenty minutes for a ride that costs 120 THB (2.60 GBP). Watch out for the river ferry crossing opposite the train station. Locals pay 5 THB (0.11 GBP), but the ticket seller will often try to hand tourists a map and charge 20 THB (0.45 GBP) for the privilege. Just hand over the exact coin and walk aboard.

Most travellers push further north to Chiang Mai on the overnight sleeper train. You can board directly at the local station at 9:42 PM, waking up in the mountains fourteen hours later for around 1,000 THB (22 GBP) in a second-class air-conditioned berth. Alternatively, Lopburi is just an hour up the railway line for 15 THB (0.33 GBP) if you want to spend an afternoon dodging the infamous temple monkeys. Minivans to Kanchanaburi leave from the Naresuan Road depot, taking nearly three hours and costing 400 THB (8.80 GBP) for a direct service.

AIRPORTS & TERMINALS

There is no local airport, so you will rely on Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang. Don Mueang is actually closer, sitting right on the northern rail line. You can walk straight out of Don Mueang arrivals, cross the skywalk, and catch a northbound train for 15 THB (0.33 GBP) without ever setting foot in central Bangkok. Ayutthaya Railway Station is small, but the left luggage office securely stores bags for just 20 THB (0.45 GBP) a day.

MONEY & COSTS

Your daily budget stretches remarkably well here. Backpackers can easily survive on 25 GBP a day, mid-range travellers will live very comfortably on 60 GBP, and 120 GBP buys outright luxury by the river. ATMs are plentiful along Naresuan Road and inside every 7-Eleven, though they charge the standard 220 THB (4.80 GBP) withdrawal fee. Card acceptance is entirely restricted to higher-end hotels and modern cafes. Bring cash for everything else. The best money tip here is to hoard small 20 and 50 THB notes; temple entrance booths rarely have change for a 1,000 THB note at 8:00 AM.

AIS provides the strongest 5G coverage across the historical park. You can pick up a 15-day unlimited tourist SIM at either Bangkok airport for 599 THB (13 GBP) before travelling up. Guesthouse wifi is generally reliable for basic browsing, but upload speeds plummet in the evenings when everyone returns from the temples. A unique quirk here is that mobile data frequently drops out completely when standing directly inside the thicker stone crypts of Wat Ratchaburana.

ESSENTIAL PRACTICALITIES

UK passport holders receive a 60-day visa exemption upon arrival in Thailand. Tipping is not expected, but leaving a 20 to 50 THB (0.45 to 1.10 GBP) note for a good massage or excellent restaurant service is always appreciated. Sockets take flat or round two-pin plugs operating at 220V, so bring a universal adapter. The local Tourist Police are highly responsive and can be reached by dialling 1155. One practical detail most overlook is the street dog population inside the historical park at dusk. They become highly territorial in the dark, so simply aim to finish your cycling by sunset.